national park

#NatureWritingChallenge - History Schmistory...

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“What is your favorite National Park history? Any cool stories to share, buildings you enjoy, or historical wonders you enjoy?”

2019 - Topic 4

January 31, 2019

Join us on Twitter with the hashtag #NatureWritingChallenge to discuss and share the topic Thursday at 8:30 CST. This post was created in one hour specifically for this challenge.

History isn’t my jam.

I’m not a big history fan, generally speaking, but I am not closed off to learning about specific topics if they come about. What I really mean to say is that I do not seek out historical texts or books, but will read through something quick and easy to digest. I do enjoy learning about culture, archaeology, and geology which all explore history in different interesting ways.

Big trees are old.

One group of historical figures I couldn’t live without are the big trees of the west coast. The redwoods, giant sequoias, and various other large and old trees are some of my favorite living organisms in the world. I first saw these big trees back in 2008 and have been in love with them since then. These trees age gracefully and are a vital part of the ecosystem and region as a whole. What would life be like without big trees? These specific types of trees aside, I grew up with very old maples in the front yard and super old apple trees in the orchard. Trees can teach us how to adapt and thrive, even in the worst conditions over 2000 years.

That arch didn’t form overnight.

I’m not sure how many years it took Delicate Arch to come to the present state, but thank goodness it did. Have you been to Delicate Arch, up close and personal? I have and it was insane. To think erosion did that, over so many years is crazy. This iconic rock formation is a piece of history to me. When I went to Arches, I learned about the history of the park, the history tied to the geology, and the history of the people who inhabited the land.

Speechless at the Grand Canyon.

The first time I saw the Grand Canyon was October 12, 2011. I was driving back with a friend from Las Vegas and we stopped at the North Rim and I was awestruck. When my dear friend Ashley and I visited the South Rim in 2013, I was awestruck again. When I visited with my other half and dear friend Nikki in 2015, it was amazing in a new way as it was dusted with snow in places. The Grand Canyon is old. Think of the years it took for the Colorado River to cut through the earth and form that giant hole. Think of the people who live and lived there long before we stand on the paved path at the edge admiring. What a place, rich in history and culture.

History may not be my “thing” but I am willing to embrace it on a case by case basis. Learning about these great trees or geologic formations is a form of history appreciation in my book.

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#NatureWritingChallenge - Stranger danger! (just kidding)

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“A Memorable encounter with a stranger on public lands”

SEASON 2, WEEK 9

November 8, 2018

Join us on Twitter with the hashtag #NatureWritingChallenge to discuss and share the topic Thursday at 8:30 CST. This post was created in one hour specifically for this challenge.

I can’t pinpoint one conversation with a stranger. I’m not always so good at reaching out to fellow public land users and being my normal outgoing self. I’m always friendly in that I say hello to people along the trails and will definitely engage in conversation if someone else starts one. If I’m headed a National Park, odds are I’m with someone and become even less outgoing because we’re focused on our time together. All in all, I think this topic of discussion has inspired to me to make it a point, or objective, to be more outgoing and take the time to have the random chat with other public land lovers.

I have a series of moments I do remember, that were brief, that I’ll share.

Arches - After hiking up to Delicate Arch, we were making our way back to the car and had a chat with a family from Michigan that noticed my friend’s shirt that had our alma mater displayed. I’ve had many conversations with people in Arches, actually, but nothing too lengthy overall. Always brief, but always friendly. I talked to a guy about taking morning photos, talked to an old couple about all of the places they’ve visited, and talked to people who saw my shirt (usually something about Michigan) and made an initial comment.

Clothing related - I have had more interactions based on the hat, shirt, or jacket I am wearing. I wear a LOT of Michigan gear, in fact it’s probably annoying to many at this point, but I love being from there and it is certainly one of the most recognizable states. I LOVE meeting people from Michigan, learning about their experiences there, and ultimately if they love it or not. I’ve been called out to from across a parking lot and stopped on a busy sidewalk. I love it.

Time related - I love being asked “what time did you start today?” when I’m coming back from an in/out trail as swarms of people are headed out. I’m an early starter, and I LOVE watching all of the people head in as I head out because I not-so-secretly love being asked how the trail was. I always love to give an opinion and try to read what type of hiker the person is, without being judgmental in a negative light. I love to give little tidbits to look for and point out great spots to take it all in. I love to share about any animals I’ve seen or flowery meadows. I love it.

I’ve had excellent chats with rangers at the various parks and monuments in the US, but I don’t count those because that’s more their job. I have had endless chats with hotel and campground staff, but again, it’s their job to engage. I generally don’t mind taking time to chat, and I would love to do it more often. So, if you see me out here, ask how the trail was!

#NatureWritingChallenge - Public Lands Wish List

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“YOUR PUBLIC LANDS WISH LIST”

SEASON 2, WEEK 8

November 1, 2018

Join us on Twitter with the hashtag #NatureWritingChallenge to discuss and share the topic Thursday at 8:30 CST. This post was created in one hour specifically for this challenge.

Public lands are funded by the people which is why we all are entitled to enjoy them. Funded by the people is a broad concept but really just means taxes, private donations, and fees come together to pay the bills.

I’m going to address the things I’d love to see in public lands but may not make sense to everyone or may not be financially feasible.

Streamlined Management

I’d like to see all of our public lands managed in a more efficient manner. I envision one agency, under the Department of Interior, with various branches. Have a branch for the National Parks & Monuments, have a branch for the grazing lands, and have a branch for the forests. I know don’t know enough about it all, but I just imagine a more harmonious and streamlined management of all the lands we know and love. With streamlined management could come a streamlined leadership and staff. Not a reduction in number, but people all on the same team able to work together even easier.

Proper Funding

Simply put, we need to have our public lands made a priority and a budget fulfilled to address all of the back and future maintenance necessary for modern crowds. We need to pay our park rangers, park workers, and all people who manage/work the lands a fair wage. We need to invest in science and research and fully fund studies involving our public lands.

Transportation/Accessibility

Public lands are becoming popular, and really have always been popular. When I was at Mount Rainier a couple of weekends ago I was reading about the first car that came into the park and how modern cars flooded in and it was chaos. So many parks are overrun by the visitors that parking lots are full early on in the morning. Shuttles have popped up at a few locations, and seem to be alright, but more could be done.

More shuttles at more parks, more transportation from major (or nearby) cities with direct routes to public lands. More options for people that may have few options to get out to public lands. More urban public lands would be a great way to introduce even more people to how great they are and what they have to offer. More people that respect and know them means more future stewards.

Public lands need funding but they also need specific funding to be more ADA friendly. While it’s clear not every location can be accessed by everyone, many main places can be modified to allow more people of all abilities to see some of the best vistas on our public lands.

Education/Appreciation

My wish list focuses on inclusion, funding, and streamlining. There are endless other needs, but these are the stepping stones for so much more. With more funding and more accessibility, more education can happen and people can become more aware of how important these places are to our nation and the tribes of humans that hold them sacred to this day. We must teach the history of the land to ensure people respect where it came from and how important it is to so many to this day.

We can’t have it all, right now anyway, so we need to keep fighting the good fight. We need to keep visiting, keep buying annual passes, keep respecting the land, and keep voting for people who make public lands a priority.

#NatureWritingChallenge - Your Most Iconic/Favorite Entrance Station to a National Park

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“Your Most Iconic/Favorite Entrance Station to a National Park”

SEASON 2, WEEK 7

October 25, 2018

Join us on Twitter with the hashtag #NatureWritingChallenge to discuss and share the topic Thursday at 8:30 CST. This post was created in one hour specifically for this challenge.

If this topic was more than a week ago, I wouldn’t have been able to pick Mount Rainier National Park. I would have chosen Bryce Canyon, Olympic, or Redwoods. But, as luck would have it, I got to visit Mount Rainier with a knowledgeable guide and drive through THREE entrance stations that all stood out to me. There was one other, but it was more of a pay station and didn’t hold a lot of eye candy value to me.

I have a lot of memories and photos of entrance signs from everywhere (state/local parks included), but nothing compares to driving through a cool ranch-style entrance arch on three different occasions. Seeing people share photos of park entrances is one of my favorite things because it just entices me to visit.

My trip to Mount Rainier started in the Tacoma suburbs. I met up with my knowledgeable guide and learned about all of the rivers and history from the suburbs to the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Since our first stop of the evening was at the Sun Top Lookout, for sunset and then we camped on National Forest land, I never saw the first entrance into Mount Rainier National Park other than by headlights the next morning as we chased the sunrise. Despite it being dark, it’s still memorable because it was a gateway of sorts as we transitioned from forest to park. Of course the trees didn’t change and the road was still paved, but it made it official for me. I’ve always wanted to see the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest too, but Mount Rainier was a dream I’d only seen from afar.

Through the gateway, we were headed up to Chinook Pass. You know, the view from the side of the road above Tipsoo Lake was memorable, but passing under the Pacific Crest Trail to the Wenatchee National Forest was also memorable. This takes us to two entrances now, this one I was able to snap a photo of due to daylight. From this point, I didn’t know what else to expect. We passed through the pay station, where you’d normally show your pass, but it was closed. Not a memorable pass through, but the Grove of the Patriarchs Trail is quite vivid in my memory. I walked across my first walking suspension bridge, saw some big old cedars, and really embraced low level forest of the park.

As the day passed, many stops were made and we eventually exited through the gateway at the Nisqually Entrance. Apparently, this is the more popular entrance. Sure, the entrances were fun, but the places accessibility within the boundary are what count. There was not a place in Mount Rainier National Park that disappointed. If it wasn’t a scenic vista, it was huge trees. Everywhere I turned, I was impressed. The views of neighboring peaks in the various National Forest lands were also impressive and humbling, making the park that much better. I am grateful to have had a great guide and new friend show me around; I have previewed the park and am ready to dive in. My favorite entrance, for the record, was from Wenatchee National Forest to the park, passing under the Pacific Crest Trail. To me, that is the ultimate representation of the Pacific Northwest in one spot.

The reason I love these entrances is not only because they’re cool to look at, it’s because of the experience I had in and around the park. The memories made, vistas seen, and roads traveled mean the world to me and I am fortunate to have been able to visit. The trees, mountains, and history of the land have made this park instantly one of my favorites thus making these entrances some of my favorites.

#NatureWritingChallenge - The Past 15 Years

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“How my public lands experience changed in the last 15 years”

Season 2, Week 4

October 4, 2018

Join us on Twitter with the hashtag #NatureWritingChallenge to discuss and share the topic Thursday at 8:30 CST. This post was created in one hour specifically for this challenge.

Fifteen years ago it was 2003 and I was in my first year of college at Grand Valley State University near Grand Rapids, Michigan. At that point on a “national level,” I had only been to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and parts of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. I had only been out of the state a handful of times, mostly to Ontario, where I visited several provincial parks. Public land use for me was very localized until 2008.

As I’m writing this, I always jump to “national level” public land but there is so much at the local level that I almost overlooked all of the wonderful places I had been. Michigan has some of the best state parks I’ve seen, some of the finest state and national forests around, and plenty of county parks to fill any gaps. Near my college, we had university property along a river with miles of trails and down the road another county park that had a similar setup. On any given day, I could be found on the coast of Lake Michigan at the beach or on the dunes. My friends and I would hop in one of our cars and head west to the lake as often as we could during any season. There were several great state parks that offered a varying degree of the outdoor experience.

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In 2006 I changed my major to Natural Resource Management and took a few courses in wildlife management and ecology. I had several projects that forced me out of the classroom and into the woods. I went to a national forest to help clear a trail, I surveyed state park camping sites, and assisted with trail building. I took a job, as my internship, as a seasonal park ranger with the City of Wyoming, a suburb of Grand Rapids. I patrolled the city parks with a partner for four summers. I removed graffiti, walked the trails, cleaned up trash, and learned that public spaces in the city can be worth exploring. Being a seasonal park ranger, in an urban area, was not ideal in my grand scheme of natural resource management, but it certainly helped me appreciate the tedious work that goes unnoticed by park patrons that I’m sure government employees across the agencies deal with daily.

Fast forward to 2007 when I embark on a spring break road trip that would forever change my perspective on life. As mentioned, I hadn’t been out of Michigan much and this trip took me across the Midwest directly to the Rocky Mountains. While no major national public lands were visited on this trip, I saw what was out there and where they were from the freeways. The 2007 trip got me looking at maps and learning about the big parks. I had spent 20+ years before not really caring much about national public lands because I was low income, in a state without many spots, and in a state hundreds of miles away. The trip led more trips, endless trips actually, and lit a burning desire to see the land that belonged to all citizens.

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In 2008, after almost seeing a handful of public land hot spots in 2007, I took another trip that included plans to see Redwood National & State Parks as well as Death Valley National Park. Along the way, I saw plenty of state and local parks along the Pacific Coast as well as a few national forests. The west is best, and I loved it so much, I went back in 2009, 2010, and 2011.

They say you don’t realize what you had until it is gone, and I feel that way about Michigan’s natural beauty since moving to Texas in 2011. I took advantage of a lot when I was there, but there are endless places to see and I have a lot on the list of public lands I wish I had visited. Since being in Texas, I’ve had more opportunities to enjoy life due to a little bit of job security, so I’ve used that to explore public lands even more. I now have the means to visit public land locations in other states and I take full advantage when I can. Dallas-Fort Worth is a big airport that offers affordable flights to many great places that allow me to plan a trip, see multiple public land locations, and get home all in a long weekend and for very few dollars in the grand scheme of life.

I’m not quite public lands obsessed, but my desire to explore them has greatly increased in the past seven years. With more exploration comes more knowledge which has taught me the value of the land and what it takes to preserve them for future generations. Fifteen years ago I had no idea people didn’t like public lands nor did I know the constant battle in place to protect and designate these treasured places. I had no idea how these lands tied into Indigenous culture nor did I know much about the history of any specific act or designated parcel. I’m so thankful to know people who have so much knowledge about public lands and are willing to share. I’m thankful to have a better understanding of how challenging it can be to find a balance with public lands - in management, designation, visitation, and preservation. I’m proud to say I’m part of the current public lands conversation and I can only hope that as other people become aware and involved they are too. Public lands involvement has changed my life, steered my path for what I want in life, and influenced almost every non-family visit vacation plan I make. If you can get out there, get out there - to your city park, state park, national park, national forest, state forest, whatever! Go find the land that belongs to all of us and enjoy it within your legal rights!

#NatureWritingChallenge - A Person Who Inspired Your Love For Public Lands

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“A Person Who Inspired Your Love For Public Lands”

Season 2, Week 3

September 27, 2018

Join us on Twitter with the hashtag #NatureWritingChallenge to discuss and share the topic Thursday at 8:30 CST. This post was created in one hour specifically for this challenge.

Of all the road trips, camping trips, and vacations, I’d have to say seeing public lands became a big part of them in 2008. My best friend Kevin, the guy from all of my road trip stories, really inspired my love for and promoted public lands the most out of anyone I knew back then. We started to incorporate visiting public lands in our road trips and eventually made it our mission to make various National Parks our main destination.

Today, we don’t get out as much together as we did back in college, but I think we both still love public lands and what they stand for as much or more than before. Our last big trip before both of us settled into life was leaving Houston on a whim and driving to Saguaro National Park just to see it really quickly because we had to be back the next day. The thrill of the road trip plus a destination to see cool cacti was all we needed. Since then, I know he’s taken his family on a couple of trips that included various National Parks and public lands to which they all seem to have enjoyed.

I’ve taken trips since then to visit many National Forests, Parks, and Monuments. I live for it now, and it’s easy to say it started back with a simple road trip in 2008 that included Redwood National & State Parks as well as Death Valley.

We are lucky, and when possible, can travel together to his family cabin in Northern Minnesota which is surrounded by National Forests and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Northern Minnesota is a REAL TREAT and if you get the chance, get up there and experience that solitude and untouched beauty.

It’s one thing to sit and read about the land set aside for us, but visiting various places and putting it all together makes it truly sink in. My buddy Kevin may have encouraged and inspired my initial love for public lands, but it is the online outdoor community that inspired my desire to continue to protect, expand, and care for them. One beautiful thing about the internet and social networking is the ability to connect with people to share knowledge and promote an end game that we can all get behind. I am forever grateful for the online outdoor community, some of whom I get to meet in person, for our shared love of all things public lands.

#NatureWritingChallenge - Favorite Place to Introduce People to Public Lands

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“Favorite Place to Introduce People to Public Lands”

Season 2, Week 2

September 20, 2018

Join us on Twitter with the hashtag #NatureWritingChallenge to discuss and share the topic Thursday at 8:30 CST. This post was created in one hour specifically for this challenge.

I’ve never had to think too hard about which piece of public land was my favorite to introduce to someone because I’m usually just so glad someone wants to go at all. My experience with public lands beyond state parks isn’t much, and I don’t know many people that are too adventurous, but I’m always willing to go anywhere anyone is up for visiting. I’ve had the joy of showing my other half Arches and then showing it to my best friend five years later. My friend Kevin and I have taken friends to Death Valley and seeing other people enjoy it as much as we did was wonderful. But, nothing has made me more excited than showing my best friend and other half Redwood National and State Parks in California. I originally visited the majestic Redwoods in spring of 2008 and long to go back as often as possible.

Each visit to the Redwoods, be it a state or national park, has been absolutely magical. From our first drive through in 2008 to my the most recent in 2017, which I’ve discussed [here], [here], [here], and [here]. I love the Redwoods, and with limited exposure to public lands thus far, I’d say it’s in my top three for favorite destinations. But, this isn’t about that. I’m excited just thinking about taking people to the Redwoods for the first time. Many people have heard of the big trees on the west coast, but few that I know have actually visited them. Expectations for what they look like are set from textbooks or internet photos, but seeing them in person usually blows them out of the water.

Redwood National and State Parks cover a LOT of ground. I’m talking, hours of driving and days of hiking to see it all. So, I can’t say that I’m an expert or that I’ve even visited every special place, but that makes it even more amazing to revisit. I’ve been to several of the main places, and that’s usually how it started when introducing my BFF and other half to the vastness that is the Redwoods. We’d hit up a popular spot and do the drive through the Avenue of the Giants. Each time, though, we’d try something else. From the Big Tree area we ventured off into the woods or from near Prairie Creek we headed over to Lost Man Creek. I’ve hiked the same trail, 9 years apart, but didn’t even know it so it felt brand new to me.

There is more to the Redwoods than just the big trees and ferns. There are wild rivers running through, old dirt roads that take the long way, and so many smaller trees that are just as beautiful. There are plenty of tourist attractions and a few gift shops as well as several small towns with stores and restaurants. One can feel very small and alone or completely part of the tourist crowd, it’s a choice that can even mean having the best of both worlds.

If you can get to Northern California, go to the Redwoods. Go on a weekday, go on a weekend, go for several days. Just. Go. You will likely not regret it unless you HATE trees, endless green leaves, ferns, dampness, fog, or the freshest smells of your life.

#NatureWritingChallenge - Favorite Morning on Public Lands

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“Your Favorite Morning on Public Lands”

Season 2, Week 1

September 13, 2018

Join us on Twitter with the hashtag #NatureWritingChallenge to discuss and share the topic Thursday at 8:30 CST. This post was created in one hour specifically for this challenge.

I have a number of memorable mornings on public lands, but nothing quite like the morning I experienced a few weeks ago at Arches National Park. I’ve referenced the hike to Delicate Arch in my Hike 28 post, but I plan to visit why this was so magical for me and my range of feelings before, during, and after.

It was mid-August in Utah so we were expecting warm temperatures and moderate to heavy crowds in Arches National Park the weekend we were there. Our plan was to see as much of the park as we could in the day and a half we had, as well as what we could see at Canyonlands or the surrounding areas. I pitched the idea of starting a hike in the dark, very early in the morning, to Delicate Arch and my best friend Molly was totally on board because she’s just that kind of friend. I hadn’t hiked to Delicate Arch since 2010, and I didn’t really remember much from the hike except there was a ledge and then you were at the arch. Oh, I do remember Delicate Arch being much bigger in person, which shouldn’t be a surprise but was for me again on this visit.

A quick back track… We arrived via plane in Salt Lake City on Friday afternoon, from our home cities, and drove down to Moab Friday evening. We ate and drank at the Moab Brewery and then found our Airbnb just outside of town. Our plan was to wake up at 4, head to the Delicate Arch trail and hike up for the sunrise. We entered Arches about 4:15 AM Saturday and noticed some rain. The rain seemed to get more intense as we drove through, but we parked at the trailhead anyway and waited until about 5 AM. There were a few other people waiting it out, and eventually the rain let up as the light started to increase. People from a car that had came in and parked next to us headed out on the trail. We were not feeling as ambitious, as the sky wasn’t clear and we didn’t really want to end up wet for the whole day, so we headed back towards the entrance. The radar came up as cell data returned and we felt the right choice as the rain showers weren’t done for the immediate future. We had breakfast at the Moab Diner and decided to just enjoy the park all day and try again the next morning.

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Sunday morning came and we were determined to make this happen. The weather was dry, the air was mild, and the parking lot was mostly empty. We were excited, this was happening! We strapped our headlamps on and ensured we had what we needed in my backpack, and hit the trail. I had downloaded the topographic map to my phone as well as had a screenshot of it, per the advice of Jenny the Trailhead. Luckily, thankfully, we didn’t really need the map. Since 2010, they had installed signs (though, if they were there in 2010 they were not in my pictures or memory) the whole way up. I had mixed feelings about the signs, still do, but they were helpful and steered us in the right direction when I was accidentally steering us in the wrong direction. I have a lot to learn about maps and directions, despite having a love for maps and directions.

The first portion of the journey was a well manicured, well built hiking trail that took us up a series of switchbacks to the open rock face that we’d continue onward and upward next. Being out there, under the stars in the early morning was pure bliss. Hiking in the dark was a new and exciting treat for both of us and something I want to incorporate into my rotation more often. Having an “unknown” factor due to limited sight and not remember the trail from eight years ago really heightened any excitement level.

As we scrambled over the (what I assumed) to be red rocks, we made it to the next portion on the journey and it was a little confusing for a second. The area, though mostly level, dipped through a low area and then quickly turned right to ascend towards Delicate Arch. I got confused and led us a bit off course but Molly corrected us and got us back on track. The morning light was getting brighter and we had reached the point where headlamps were not necessary any more. The excitement of the darkness was gone and replaced with the excitement of being nearly there. I was sweating buckets at this point, but it was worth it so far.

The final dash was an incline along a rock wall, essentially a ledge, that ended with our first view of Delicate Arch. The ledge was probably the easiest part, for me, and one of my favorites because I thoroughly enjoy walking on the edge of something. My heart was racing, my shirt was sweaty, and my mind was thrilled at the ledge and first sight of the arch ahead. We were one of the first few groups up there, second or third, and had our choice of spots to watch the sun rise in the distance. The sky was hazy, from what I assume was wildfire smoke out west, and the sunrise was quite unique because of that. More people made their way up, but it never felt too crowded. Some people may have lingered too long in front of the Arch or made dangerous choices, but everything seemed fine overall. When we got up to relocate, away from the main “entrance” for hikers, I fell. For a moment I thought I was going to die. It was a cartoon style fall, feet out from under me, nearly kicking Molly in the head, and I blacked out for just a second as my back hit the ground. My head was safe, and I had fallen into an area that wouldn’t have allowed for rolling off the cliff. I was embarrassed, but okay, and off we went to get a better seat and a closer look.

This whole morning had been a dream, and we had just started our day. After the sun was up and the people count multiplied exponentially, we decided to head down. Seeing the trail for the first time in real light was weird and wonderful. The views we missed and the little sights along the way were impressive and spectacular. Seeing your path and footing really helped as we descended the rock face, which was pinkish red, and getting to the car as the parking lot was filling up made us feel victorious in a way. We conquered this trail, had this experience, and it was only breakfast time for most. At the parking lot, we passed people who noticed Molly’s Western Michigan University shirt. We stopped to chat and learned they were also from Michigan and about to hike up to the arch. We recalled our experience, gave some pointers, and made sure they had water.

I left Arches feeling accomplished and inspired. I knew I could do the hike, but actually doing it and experiencing it made all the difference. Hiking under the stars and seeing that first light in an amazing setting was phenomenal and something I’ll never forget. If you’re going to Delicate Arch, I highly suggest doing it in the morning to avoid the head and avoid the crowds. People are fine, it’s expected, but why not see it before they arrive if you have the ability and time? One final thing… if you go up to Delicate Arch, OR ANYWHERE ON PUBLIC LANDS, leave no trace. Pack out your trash - this includes orange peels and sunflower seed shells. There were SO MANY seed shells up at the Arch. For more information on how to enjoy nature without destroying it, visit the Leave No Trace (LNT) website.

#NatureWritingChallenge - A big day in Big Bend

Topic: One last look back at a favorite winter's moment on America's Public Lands

Location: Big Bend National Park - Texas

Date: January 2014

One of the great things about living in Texas can be the lack of a traditional winter with the snow and ice of the north or mountains.  I grew up in Michigan, with lake effect blizzards, winter snow, and plenty of cold weather.  While I miss the snow, I have mostly adjusted to the mild winters I now enjoy in Texas - it can be the best time of year to be outside.

Back in 2014, my other half and one of our best friends embarked on a quick trip to Big Bend National Park.  The drive from where we lived at the time was about 8 hours and that is through some of the flattest, most boring parts of Texas that exist.  We left our house early, in the dark, with temperatures hovering near 20 degree and arrived to the park with sunshine and slightly warmer air.  It was perfect.  Sunshine, amazing views along the drive in, and only a few people in the campground - we were off to a good start.

We did a little hike of the Lost Mine Trail and then went to finish setting up camp.  We pitched the tent, made some food, watched the sky turn pink, and waited for our friend to arrive - she had to work a half day.  It was dark by the time she came, but it was really just in time to see the stars.  The night sky was insane!  There were more stars in sight than I ever though I'd be able to see.  We enjoyed staring up, quietly and drifted off to sleep.

As morning light broke, we learned we had visitors.  As we peeked out of the tent, we saw deer in every direction eating the grass at the campsites.  Once people began to stir, the deer moved to less populated areas and empty campsites but were undeterred overall.  We made breakfast and prepared for the day of adventure.  We needed to see most of the park in one day, as we had to leave the next morning.  The park is huge, and knowing what I do now, I realize trying to see the whole place in one day is a bit silly.  We were blissfully unaware of how long it would take and had no real idea of what was out there to explore.  We followed signs, took scenic turnouts, and it seemed to work out well.  We saw a variety of landscapes and learned about the history of the park, which was the best we could do looking back.

A highlight of the long day was getting to Santa Elana Canyon in time to see the sun setting on the Rio Grande.  We'd walked along the Rio Grande in the Rio Grande Village area but seeing the views from the Santa Elena Canyon Overlook trail was spectacular.  Our day of driving went from one end of the park to the other, effectively using every minute of daylight available.  We returned to camp in the dark, tired, and ready for bed.

The trip was quick and left us wanting more.  I learned about the desert and was able to see how diverse the landscape of Texas can be - in one single park.

 

**This post was created in 1-hour fro the Nature Writing Challenge on Twitter.

#NatureWritingChallenge - The trees are bigger in California

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It was just last summer when I first entered Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.  My other half and I were driving from Oregon to Texas and we decided to stop at a few National Parks along the way.  We had visited Redwoods the year before, but went through there again because, how can you not?  From the west coast, we took the long way to I-5 and headed south towards Sequoia and Kings Canyon.  Back in 2008 my buddies and I had skirted around through Sequoia National Forest, but opted to devote our time to Death Valley.

As you leave Sacramento and continue south, it's a pretty boring ride until you get to the Sequoia National Forest.  Once you climb the mountains, the views of the valleys become clear and the trees start to get taller.  This was the first National Park that I entered and needed to buy an annual pass, as we had let ours expire, and also the first I've ever waiting in line to enter.  After speaking with a nice woman about the park, we were on our way to the big trees.  We had a limited amount of time and needed to keep on schedule.

The first big, famous tree was saw was the General Grant.  The Redwoods always amaze me, but these trees are a little different.  They're huge and in sunshine, without the mist of the west coast or lush green undergrowth.  These trees have bulbous trunks and roots that bulge way out.  They survive fire, wind, and other disasters and continue on because that's their purpose - to carry on.

We left General Grant for General Sherman.  The drive between the two areas is quite an adventure along a winding mountain road.  The views over the edge, the big trees, and the curves keep your attention for the entire way.  Once at General Sherman, we descended with the crowds to the featured giant.  Again, walking among the giants made me feel small in the best way.

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Leaving the park was just as spectacular as entering.  The trip down the mountain was exciting as every turn gave way to a new view of the mountains or valley.  The trees got smaller, but that humble feeling from walking with the giants lasted for a while.

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This post was created in 1 hour for the #NatureWritingChallenge.  Check it out on Twitter with the hashtag and feel free to join in!

 

*This post is short and sweet and may or may not make sense due to NyQuil and a debilitating cough/cold.

#NatureWritingChallenge - Badwater Basin: 282 Feet Below Sea Level

"A memorable sign on Public Lands" - This post was created for the #naturewritingchallenge in one hour.

I was thinking back to all the signs on public lands - there have been a lot and I'm kind of obsessed with documenting my travels with them.  I started to look through my archives, trying to find that most memorable sign.  Then, I thought, maybe it's not a photo of a sign but maybe one of those many epiphanies I've had in my life.  I've had many moments on Public Lands that have brought great clarity to my brain, but not really any major signs in life.  So, I'm going to stick to the physical and share one of my most memorable and favorite signs.  The year was 2008, my two good buddies and I had just visited the Redwoods and were moving on through California to Death Valley National Park.  I had researched the Redwoods, as mentioned in the post from last week, but I really knew NOTHING about Death Valley prior to visiting.  We arrived midday, sun shining, wind blasting, and the desert blooming.  We were in shock, coming from moss covered redwoods to giant sequoias to the desert - the hottest, lowest place in the USA.

I can remember the start of our drive through the park - we were truly obsessed with the signs because we were in love with the road trip.  Signs were the way we navigated - old school, before smartphones and navigation systems in the dash.  We were in our rented car, driving through the desert and we see the sign to turn right in a mile for Death Valley.  Eventually, we get to to the Death Valley welcome sign and enter the park, feeling accomplished.  We were using Microsoft Streets and Trips, but signs were our guiding visual element.  If I went out there right now and reenacted this scenario, with my Google Maps built in to my device, I'm not sure I'd have been as observant of the signs and markers.  As I write this I'm having an "ah-ah" moment about how I've become so much less observant in current times and maybe I need to slow it down when I'm out and about.  I still notice signs, but I don't obsess over them the way we did before Google Maps and that fresh road trip spirit of the late 2000s.

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As we meandered through the park, we stopped at various tourist stops to take it in and take pictures.  We stopped to take a photo of the sign proclaiming we were at sea level and moved on to see the how borax was mined and transformed and then on to see the desert in bloom.  We made our way to the Devil’s Golf Course, to the Furnace Creek Visitors Center, and then to Badwater Basin.  When I think of my first trip to Death Valley, I think of Badwater Basin and posing with the sign that says I was 282 feet below sea level.  Of all the places we saw, other than maybe the desert in bloom which only seems significant now that I know people flock to see it, Badwater stands out.  The white salt flats, the salty pools of water, the view through the valley, and the sign that said I was there.  Death Valley and Redwoods were the first two big parks I experienced in my life - and they were a day a part.  Sure the trees are unforgettable, in fact I daydream about them often, but being in the hottest and lowest place in the USA is also quite memorable and I have a photo with a sign to prove it.

Two years after this visit, I was able to get back.  This time, I knew a little about what to expect when visiting Death Valley.  We entered from the east this time, made our way to places I didn't even know existed the first time, I didn't see any bloom in the desert, and I sure did go back to Badwater and stand next to that sign again.  Going back, I was genuinely excited to see this place again and to take a photo in front of the sign.  Sure, I got to see the valley from Dante's View, hike through one of the side canyons, and see the painted desert hills of the Artist's Drive, but that sign at Badwater was a constant and will be any time I visit in the future.  Signs come and go, they change, and they can be metaphorical.  Maybe this one sign is just a physical sign, but it's representative of my first desert adventure, inspired me to check out more desert destinations, and beckons me to return to see it and the ever changing Badwater Basin.

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